3D Printing material properties cheat sheet [PDF]

When I started 3D printing, I was almost always printing with PLA, no matter what the use case.

I even printed planters, outdoor stuff and things that withstand stress using PLA and the result was pretty awful.

As long as I was making decorative pieces, it turned out really good with PLA.

For outdoor pieces though, PLA started deteriorating after a few months.

For pieces that withstand stress, PLA would break very easily and also parts with overhangs, Hinges, mating pieces with small indents and small features would break very easily.

So… lesson learned.

I need to make my 3D printed parts using different materials and I should consider the “use case” of those parts in mind when selecting a print material.

And that was not all.

Every material from every manufacturer has different set of properties.

So whenever we are printing with any material, you need to consider the common properties of that material and also the properties suggested by the manufacturer.

So, after lots of failed prints I ended up settling on some settigs that almost always work for the 3D print materials.

And I compiled these properties here for my refernce and as well as for eveytone else who is interesed in these settings.

So, let’s start the list with Jack of all trades PLA.

PLA (Polylactic Acid)

PLA or polylactic acid is the favorite and the most common 3D printing material. 

Because it’s the easiest to print its biodegradable in industrial setting. And it results in really smooth prints.

Strengths: Minimal warping, glossy finish, inexpensive, eco-friendlier than ABS.

Weaknesses: Brittle, absorbs moisture, softens in heat above 50°C.

Best for: Prototypes, models, decorative items, architectural mockups.

Avoid for: Outdoor use, heat-exposed parts, or high-stress components.

Here is a table highlighting all the properties of PLA for clean prints.

Parameter	Specification
Nozzle Temperature	190°C – 220°C (Typical: 200°C)
Bed Temperature	20°C – 60°C(Typical: 50°C)
Print Speed	40 – 70 mm/s
Layer Height	0.1 mm – 0.4 mm
Cooling Fan	ON after first few layers (100%)
Retraction Settings	4–6 mm (Bowden), 1–2 mm (Direct Drive) with speeds in the range of 30-60 mm/sec
Wall Thickness	Minimum 0.8 mm (2 perimeters with 0.4 mm nozzle)
Infill	15–25% (decorative), 40–100% (functional)
Top and Bottom Layers	3–5 solid layers
First Layer	Slow (20 mm/s), thicker (0.2–0.4 mm)

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)

ABS is strong, durable and its used wisely in consumer products, but it’s tricky to print.

ABS warps easily, especially along the corners, and it emits strong fumes, so good ventilation and a closed enclosure printer is highly recommended.

Also ABS prints at high temperature, so the printer should support a high temperature nozzle.Strengths: Tough, heat-resistant, easy to sand and machine.

Weaknesses: Warping, cracking, unhealthy fumes.

Best for: Automotive parts, tools, toys, enclosures.

Avoid for: Small, detailed prints and poorly ventilated spaces.

Here is a table highlighting all the properties of ABS for clean prints.

Parameter	Specification
Nozzle Temperature	230°C – 260°C (Typical: 245°C)
Bed Temperature	80°C – 110°C (Typical: 100°C)
Print Speed	40 – 60 mm/s
Layer Height	0.1 mm – 0.4 mm
Cooling Fan	OFF (minimal cooling for best layer adhesion and closed enclosure 3D printers required)
Retraction Settings	4–6 mm (Bowden), 1–2 mm (Direct Drive)
Wall Thickness	Minimum 1.2 mm (3perimeters with 0.4 mm nozzle)
Infill	20–50% (general use), higher for stronger parts
Top and Bottom Layers	5–7 solid layers
First Layer	Print slowly (20 mm/s), good squish for adhesion

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate)

You can think of ASA as ABS’s weatherproof cousin.

It’s tougher outdoors because it has very high resistance to UV light, so you can use it for prints that are going to remain outside.

Also it has a nice matte finish, so if you want print with that kind of finish you should go with ASA.

Strengths: strong, impact-resistant, great for outdoor use.

Weaknesses: needs an enclosed printer and ventilation, harder to post-process.

Best for: outdoor enclosures, signage, automotive components.

Avoid for: delicate miniatures or unventilated rooms.

Parameter	Specification
Nozzle Temperature	240°C – 260°C (Typical: 250°C)
Bed Temperature	90°C – 110°C (Typical: 100°C)
Print Speed	40 – 60 mm/s
Layer Height	0.1 mm – 0.3 mm
Cooling Fan	OFF or minimal
Retraction Settings	4–6 mm (Bowden), 1–2 mm (Direct Drive)
Wall Thickness	Minimum 1.2 mm (3 perimeters with 0.4 mm nozzle)
Infill	20–50% for general use; higher for strength
Top and Bottom Layers	5–7 solid layers
First Layer	Print slowly (20 mm/s) ensure good bed adhesion

PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol)

PETG is kind of like the sweet spot between PLA and ABS.

It’s easy to print and also strong and durable.

It has excellent chemical resistance and it warps quite minimally.

But PETG can be stringy, so, you need to ensure proper retraction and temperature settings for printing with PETG.

Strengths: Strong layer adhesion, UV and water resistance.

Weaknesses: Stringing, bed adhesion can be too strong.

Best for: Protective cases, brackets, outdoor applications, medical models.

Avoid for: Very detailed prints or parts exposed to heat over 80°C.

Parameter	Specification
Nozzle Temperature	220°C – 250°C (Typical: 240°C)
Bed Temperature	60°C – 85°C (Typical: 70°C)
Print Speed	40 – 60 mm/s
Layer Height	0.1 mm – 0.3 mm
Cooling Fan	30–50% (lower cooling helps layer adhesion)
Retraction Settings	4–6 mm (Bowden), 1–2 mm (Direct Drive), slower retraction speeds (20–25 mm/s)
Wall Thickness	Minimum 1.2 mm (3 perimeters with 0.4 mm nozzle)
Infill	20–40% (general use), upto 100% for mechanical parts
Top and Bottom Layers	4–6 solid layers
First Layer	Slightly higher extrusion (110–120% flow) for better adhesion

Nylon (Polyamide)

Nylon is a workhorse material. It’s tough, flexible and wear resistant, but it’s also unforgiving.

It’s very hygroscopic so you need to ensure it is stored in a completely DRY place. 

And it warps quite easily if you don’t use proper settings and it also needs high temperature for printing.

Strengths: Extremely durable, impact-resistant, low friction.

Weaknesses: Absorbs moisture quickly, difficult to print, rougher surface finish.

Best for: Gears, bushings, structural parts, industrial applications.

Avoid for: Humid environments or high-detail artistic models.

Parameter	Specification
Nozzle Temperature	240°C – 270°C (Typical: 250°C)
Bed Temperature	70°C – 100°C (Typical: 90°C)
Print Speed	30 – 60 mm/s
Layer Height	0.1 mm – 0.3 mm
Cooling Fan	OFF or very low (up to20%) to maintain strength
Retraction Settings	4–6 mm (Bowden), 1–2 mm (Direct Drive); slower retraction speed (20–30 mm/s) to avoid stringing
Wall Thickness	Minimum 1.2 mm (3 perimeters with 0.4 mm nozzle)
Infill	25–50% (general use), up to 100% for highly stressed parts
Top and Bottom Layers	4–6 solid layers
First Layer	Extra squish (higher flow rate) for better adhesion

TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane)

TPU is rubber like flexible material with fantastic shock absorption properties, so you can use it for printing phone cases, rubber balls and other stuff which needs flexibility.

But because it is stretchable, you should use it only on direct drive extruders.

For bowden extruders it might be a little tricky and may end up clogging your nozzle if settings are not fine tuned.

Also it has a learning curve and it might frustrate you when you satrt with this but with slow print speeds and a few failed prints you will learn how to tame this material.

Strengths: Very flexible, abrasion-resistant, absorbs impact well.

Weaknesses: Tricky to handle, prone to stringing and deformation.

Best for: Phone cases, grips, seals, gaskets, shoe soles.

Avoid for: Tall rigid parts or sharp-detailed designs.

Parameter	Specification
Nozzle Temperature	210°C – 240°C (Typical: 220°C)
Bed Temperature	30°C – 60°C (Typical: 50°C)
Print Speed	20 – 40 mm/s (slow to prevent clogging)
Layer Height	0.1 mm – 0.3 mm
Cooling Fan	50–100% depending on flexibility needed
Retraction Settings	Minimal retraction (1–3 mm), slow retraction speeds because material is flexible (15–25 mm/s)
Wall Thickness	Minimum 1.2 mm (3 perimeters with 0.4 mm nozzle)
Infill	10–40% depending on flexibility (lower infill = softer part)
Top and Bottom Layers	4–6 solid layers
First Layer	Slower speed, more squish for better adhesion type

Other Materials Worth Knowing

Polycarbonate (PC): It is extremely strong, heat-resistant and great for making brackets and enclosures.

But it needs very high temperatures and an enclosed printer.

This material is relatively expensive as well so not very common among desktop printer users.

HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene): This is primarily used as a support material as it easily dissolves in limonene making it a great choice for detailed prints where support is needed.

It is specially suitable for use with ABS.

PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol): This is water-soluble material and once again a perfect fit for creating supports for PLA or other materials.

But it should be stored in moisture free environment as it quite sensitive to moisture.

Carbon Fiber Filled Filaments: This is PLA, PETG, or Nylon infused with carbon fiber for stiffness and accuracy.

Because of Carbon Fiber it becomes abrasive so you should consider using hardened nozzle for printing with this material.

Wood- or Metal-filled PLA: This material is great for decorative items as it gives a metallic or wooden texture.

But this also contains chunks of wood and other material making it abrasive, so hardened nozzle is recommended for this too.

Final Thoughts

There’s no “best” filament only the best match for your 3D part. 

If you’re just starting, start with PLA.

If you want stronger parts, move to PETG or ABS.

For functional, load-bearing components, Nylon or Polycarbonate will be better.

And when you need flexibility, TPU is your friend (if you can tame this beast!).

The key is understanding each material’s properties, trying a few smaller test prints with small parts and differnt settings and then sticking with the one that works best.

If you want me to include a material in this list let me know in the comments down below and I will test it’s propertries and include it in the list.